This project was a recreation of one of John Bloomfield's 1973 designs for The Government Inspector, originally made by Jean Hunnisett.
The costume was drafted and constructed using theatrical methods to create an 1830s-appropriate silhouette in keeping with the original design, with bertha collar, ruffled in-fill, beret sleeves and close-fitted undersleeves.
The skirts and beret sleeves were made up in cotton sateen, half of which was dyed mustard yellow and printed twice using exposed silkscreens with universal and opaque binders to create the swirling floral patterns, and the other half of which was dyed into a sunset-tone ombre. The forepart of the skirt is calico which has been dyed pale orange and hand-painted with universal binder to create stripes. The skirts and beret sleeves are cartridge-pleated into a bodice of black silk taffeta with hook-and-eye back closures.
The bertha collar is made in silk double organza and embellished with alternating directional bias strips made from striped silk duchesse satin to create its geometric pattern. The ruffled in-fill is also made of silk double organza trimmed with lace and cartridge pleated.
The further embellishment is created from pinked silk taffeta and cotton, to create over ten metres of 'bunting'-style trim for the neckline and skirts as well as twelve bows. The ensemble is worn over a historically-inspired corded and stiffened petticoat and a second ruffled petticoat made of calico.
This project formed the majority of my penultimate project as part of my final year studying BA Costume for Theatre and Screen at Wimbledon College of Arts. It was kindly modelled by Rebeca Ilie (https://www.instagram.com/_rebecailie_/).
First toile fitting
Second toile fitting
Studio photography session
Original design, credited to John Bloomfield